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Breathtaking Torridge, Hartland & Bude
Follow the estuary west from Instow and Appledore, then let the road lead you through Clovelly and Hartland to the wild beaches around Bude.
Where the estuary meets the sea
Follow the estuary west from Instow and Appledore, then let the road lead you through Clovelly and Hartland to the wild beaches around Bude.
Some journeys are all about reaching the destination. This one is about watching the landscape change around you: sheltered estuary villages give way to huge beaches, wooded valleys and the wonderfully untamed edge of the Atlantic.
We begin beside the River Torridge, with time to wander through Instow and Appledore. Instow feels easy-going and open, with its sandy waterfront looking across the water towards Appledore. On the opposite bank, Appledore brings narrow lanes, colourful houses and a working maritime character. This is the perfect place to slow down, find something good for breakfast and settle into the rhythm of travelling in a classic VW.
Before heading west, make room for Westward Ho! Its great sweep of sand and pebble ridge is ideal for clearing the cobwebs. There is no need to plan every minute: park up, walk as far as you fancy and return to the camper with salty hair and an appetite. If you would rather begin inland, the Puffing Billy at Great Torrington makes a characterful breakfast stop beside the Tarka Trail before you turn back towards the coast.
Clovelly and the Hartland coast
From Bideford, the route follows the coast towards Clovelly. The privately owned harbour village is famous for its steep, cobbled street and timeless fishing-village atmosphere. Leave plenty of time here; Clovelly is not somewhere to squeeze between two other stops.
Beyond Clovelly, the landscape becomes wilder as you approach Hartland. Head for Hartland Quay and you will understand why this stretch of coastline stays in the memory: dark rock formations, rolling Atlantic water and cliffs that seem to carry on forever. If your walking boots are in the van, the coast path towards Speke's Mill Mouth rewards you with a long curving beach and a waterfall dropping through the valley. The paths around Blackpool Mill also offer a quieter glimpse of the Hartland landscape.
Stoke Barton Farm makes a relaxed base close to this dramatic coast, while Westacott Farm near Bideford works beautifully for the earlier part of the journey. For an evening meal, the Farmers Arms in Woolfardisworthy - Woolsery to the locals - is worth planning ahead for rather than hoping to wander in at the last minute.
Across the border to Bude
The final stretch carries you towards Welcombe and across the Devon-Cornwall border. This is a corner made for small detours. Duckpool sits in a wooded valley where the stream meets the sea, while Sandymouth offers a huge beach beneath folded cliffs. Both are reminders that the best campervan moments often begin with the words, 'Shall we just stop here?'.
From Sandymouth, continue into Bude for sea air, canalside wandering and one last Cornish sunset. You can complete the route in a long weekend, but it is even better when you give yourself permission to stay an extra night wherever the view wins you over.
Plan your Freebird journey
This journey suits travellers who love coast paths, big skies and places with a story. Campsite opening dates and local businesses can be seasonal, so check and book before setting off - then leave enough space in the plan for the road to surprise you.
Choose your campervan and start planning your own South West adventure.
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